Friday, August 6, 2010

Cabin fever


Cabin fever 11th July

The pictures show the ‘innards’ of our Cabin, which is called “Supercargo” and certified for one seaman. Bigger than most hotel or motel rooms, it fulfils all the basics: toilet, shower, small fridge, cupboard space, desk (where our belles lettristic equipment sits), and coffee table as well as a double bed. It is quite cosy. As we have become more confident passengers, we’ve extended our ‘geographical’ footprint out onto E deck portside and created for ourselves what seems like our own balcony, where we sit in blue deckchairs when the sun is out. And when we are tired of one another and/or are afflicted with cabin fever, one of us retreats to the passengers’ lounge, where a jig-saw is slowly being pieced together.

Crossing the Tasman, 10th July

This is our second full day at sea and we have now entered New Zealand waters, although we will not Zea land until tomorrow. We have been lucky with the weather, which moves from cloudy to sunny with an occasional brief shower and with smooth seas and a gentle swell. The third officer tells us we are behind schedule due to head winds and a current working against us. We visit the bridge morning and afternoon to get our bearings on the compass (East South East) and to check our position on the paper charts and computer screens. It is always a splendid view up there and the second and third officers like to chat and discuss life at sea. We haven’t visited when the Captain George Catalui is in on watch. Today we saw birds flying low off the port side but we were not able to identify them. Third officer has promised to call if he sees another ship or a whale.

We have had to devise a routine of sorts to manage the long stretches of time—walk around the deck, visit the bridge, sit on our deckchairs in the sun and out of the wind. We also read, do puzzles, play games, visit the gym, and listen to music. We also write a diary and this Blog but there is still more time in the day than we’ve probably experienced since childhood.

Swanston Dock

Swanston Dock in Melbourne, 11.45am, 8th July

The scene is like something out of Bladerunner, mobile cranes looking vaguely robotic, running container errands between the wharf and the ships, at an inexorable pace. One would like to take a photograph or, better still a video, except picture taking is verboten and the security is such that one is likely to be observed.

Swell moment


Swell moment, 4pm, 7th July

We’re waiting for the pilot to take the Utrillo into Port Phillip Bay and onto Swanston Dock. Things are pitching around a bit. Hopefully we’ll move soon—though not until 5 o’clock. Our first day and half at sea has been more tranquil than this. The coastline and islands around Wilson’s Promontory were spectacular—well worth seeing from a Bass Strait vantage point.

Our fellow passengers, Dimitri and Judith (see picture), who are due to disembark in Melbourne, are frustrated with this turn of events. They might miss their connecting train. We are settling into the rhythm of sea-life, which is a matter adjusting to the go-slow pace of everything, of watching the clock take forever to reach the new hour.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Embarkation Papers

We have had an exciting day visiting Port Botany this morning to be met by our agent and two crew members who had just flown in from Manilla. The trick was to get through the turnstile and wait for the "bus" to come for us and take us and our luggage out to the ship. Lots of security but none of the electronic variety although we were conscious that photography was not allowed on the port site.

In the drizzling rain we climbed the steel gangway helped with our luggage by friendly crew, up to meet captain George and two customs officers. Claire was the surprise passenger as everyone had just been expecting Colin. We met our fellow passengers, one disembarking and leaving us the double room, a couple travelling on to Melbourne where they are to disembark and an Irishman is due to board and the German woman six times voyager and great freighter enthusiast.

We are back on tonight for a bed & breakfast experience @ Port Botany. We sail at 6am tomorrow. Flying by boat will really begin then.

Friday, July 2, 2010

A case study in preparation

What to pack, deciding what to take: clothes, books, electronic devices, documents, and the fear of leaving something essential behind. Packing a suitcase is the equivalent of creating what in effect will be our mobile home. It has to last six months.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Further reading matter and uTube

Further reading
Stevenson, Seth. Grounded: a down to earth journey around the world. Sydney: Harper Collins, 2001. Makes a great case for circumnavigating the world without leaving the ground.

Hazard, Richard. In Hazard. New York: New York Review of Books, 1938/2008. Ficto-ethnographic study of cargo ship when it hits a hurricane. Anxiety inducing narrative.

Secreste, Merlye. Frank Lloyd Wright: a biography. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1998. A less than flattering account of the man behind the architect.

Atlas, John. Seeds of change. Vanderbilt University, 2010. Atlas gave an account of his book dealing with the Acorn organization (we should all know about) and how it was destroyed by the Republican Party and FoxNews. Scary stuff.

Gauguin, Paul. Letters to his wife and friends, edited and with a preface by Maurice Malingue, trans. by Henry J. Stenning, Boston: MFA, 2003. Deals with Gauguin's struggles to survive, relations with fellow artists and to maintain contact with his estranged wife. Background reading for the Tate's Gauguin retrospective.

For a much a less sanguine view of the Canary Wharf development and its social implications, see Kal Gulson's Education policy, space and the city, forthcoming from Routledge.

Perec, George. An attempt at exhausting a place in Paris, trans. Marc Lowenthal (Cambridge, Mass.: Wakefield Press, 2010). This extraordinary little novella documenting the infraordinary makes mention of number 96, our local bus.

Cobb, Richard. Paris and elsewhere. New York: New York Review of Books, 1998. Acquired at Paris' Village Voice, this set of essays on Paris and other cities in France is marvelous.
  



uTube
Great introduction to Seth Stevenson's book: